Middle Kaweah

As my brother eluded to in the previous post, we spent a lot of time at the Kaweahs thanks to stellar hosting by Darin Mcquoid and Shanamar Dewey.  We arrived in Three Rivers hot off a quick run on the Dinkey Creek Waterfalls just before the run dropped out.  The next day we decided to explore the Upper East Kaweah from Lookout Point to the Lower East Kaweah put in, which, while a tad low with the Kaweah gauge at 800 was super high quality with a few walled in sections to keep us on our toes.  After the Upper East Fork, the remainder of our river time was spent on the Middle Kaweah.

Rolf above one we should have run on the Upper East Kaweah.  Photo: TJ.

JJ on a rowdy one on the Upper East Kaweah.  Photo: TJ

While the Middle Kaweah is incredibly high quality, the primary reason we didn't explore elsewhere in the Kaweah drainage was low water (low snowpack led to a long low water season for the Kaweahs), and the Middle Fork handles low water better than the other forks.  We started the first day with a run from Buckeye Flats (just above hospital rock) to Potwisha (the standard Hospital Rock take out), followed it up with a run from Moro Creek to Potwisha, and eventually built to a run from Panther Creek to Potwisha.  While the Hospital Rock run has long been known as a classic, this whole section is classic kayaking and comes together for one of the best days of paddling anywhere.

The first descent of the Upper Middle Kaweah (above Moro Creek) was documented in SLP's Burning Time 2 and started in the Cliff Creek drainage before continuing down the Middle Kaweah.  Since that descent, 2 additional descents have occurred, both starting at Panther Creek due to reports from the first descent party that Panther Creek to Moro Creek was the highest quality section and putting in there cuts the shuttle and hiking significantly.  Therefore, our plan was to head up to the trailhead early for a one day descent, hiking into Panther Creek with light, unloaded boats.

So, when the day arrived, we rumbled up to the trailhead just as the sun was rising, grabbing Kiwi Jordy Searle on the way to add to the group of Darin, multisport hardman Jared Johnson, Tom, and I.  The hike took a little longer than expected, but soon enough we were down climbing the slabs adjacent to Panther Creek down into the gorge just as the California heat was getting going.  Since no previous groups had completed the run in a day, we quickly geared up and were instantly greeted by walled out goodness.  Nothing too hard, but it was nice to have Darin's previous experience with us to ease the tension as we were in it to win it from the beginning.

Soon enough we were at the first major rapid, which consisted of a sievy entrance into an awkward off-vertical 12 footer into a boily cauldron and a walled out corridor (the only way rapids finish on this run).  Jordy and I probed it with reasonable lines and the others followed.  A few more rapids led to the crux of the run: Rusty's Rampage.  Fortunately, Rusty's is easily scoutable on river left, but portaging or setting safety for the first boater is not possible.  A slide to boof into a bunch of spray, followed by a fast moving pool into a rowdy left banking slide directly into a wall.  The good news is the wall isn't undercut.  The bad news is that the current splits at the wall between a walled out eddy on the left and freedom on the right.  And guess what, that left banking slide wants to send you into the eddy.  Darin and Jordy decided to probe while the rest of us watched and provided moral support.  Darin came through the lead in smooth but was shot left on the slide and surfed the pillow into room on the left.  While Darin waited (it's actually calm back there), Jordy came in hot, getting pummeled in the pillow, but managing to claw his way to freedom.  It took Darin about 5 tries to ferry out of the eddy, with a few good beatings on the pillow, but eventually he made it right.  The rest of us came through with 2 out of 3 ending up in the eddy and more battling but eventually everyone made it out.

 Tom dropping into Rusty's.  Photo: Jordy Searle

The same looking downstream. 

 Tom trying unsuccessfully to battle out of the eddy.

The run out of Rusty's is a walled in double pothole drop.  A nice shoulder boof on the left center delivers you into the boxed in second drop.  We all came through, although there was a little bit of battling in the bottom hole.  The walled out corridor is simply stunning, a waterfall cascaded in on the left as polished walls surrounded us.  Just around the corner is the final truly walled in section.  We scouted high on the right and found a 20 ft. low angle slide with a kicker into a pool on the right followed by a sieved out mess with a sneak on the left into a walled out sloping ledge.  Jared, Jordy, and Tom went first, with a surprise shallow landing at the left side sneak but no major problems.  Darin and I came next and the shallow landing turned out to be a 10 ft. drop onto a rock, but the rest of the rapid went well.  From there out, the run was slightly more open but still some good drops and unfortunately a few portages (although Jordy gave a long look at one that might have been another Kiwi in a pocket).  We ended up arriving at Moro Creek a little before 2 so a few of us decided to continue down through the next section down to Buckeye Flats campground.

 The author in the double drop below Rusty's.  Photo: TJ.

 Darin and Jordy in paradise.

 The author below the left side sneak.  Photo: TJ.

The author boofing the walled out sloper. Photo: TJ.

 Tom in a nice walled out drop.

JJ on a waterfall in the runout.

Just above the confluence with Moro Creek is a short portage around a nasty slot, but from there down to Buckeye Flats there are no portages and some great bedrock rapids.  First is a slide run charging right to avoid an undercut wall on the left, then an rolling ledge into a hole followed by a pinch into a sweet kicker boof.  A little boogie takes you to a rapid that looks a little dirty but boats great with several smearing boofs.  Then there's the crazy folding flume drop that feels very out of control but always ends with smiles.  A little more boogie takes you to the 15 ft. to 10 ft. double drop right above Buckeye Flats.  Finally, we arrived in the pool above Chuck's Slide.  We almost routed right off of it, but judgement got the best of us and we decided to call it a day.

A week later, we put in at Panther Creek again and rallied all the way down to Potwisha.  Needless to say, we were a little spent on the second half of the run, resulting in some interesting lines, like my epic surf in Chuck's Slide.  The rest of the run from Chuck's slide down is top notch with only one mandatory portage just above Hospital Rock.  I won't say too much about this section as it's well documented, but it packs some premium rapids in a short distance.


Beating at Chuck's Slide from Jim Janney on Vimeo.

Eventually, our time in Kaweah land came to an end.  A warming trend in mid-May sent the high sierra season into action and we were ready to get after it, which is another story for another day.

 
The Next Horizon Line: Upper Middle Kaweah from Tom Janney on Vimeo.

Southeastern Overnighters

While the Southeastern US may not be known for overnight kayak opportunities, there are certainly quite a few that are great as practice for their big brothers in the Western US and are absolutely worthy of exploring in there own right.  Over the past year I've been fortunate enough to dabble heavily in the available options.  Starting last September, I've been able to overnight the Gauley River, Raven Fork, Clear Creek, Obed River, Daddy's Creek, and Chattooga River.

As everyone knows, the Gauley is classic.  I'm fortunate enough that my Dad has been rowing a raft down the river at least once a year since before I was born.  I'm also fortunate enough that he agrees to put up with me and my kayaker friends as tag alongs in exchange for helping with rigging and breaking down rafts.  This results in a night in the lap of luxury on the side of a beautiful river with better food and drink than I ever get at home.  While the 26 miles from the damn to Swiss can easily be paddled in a single day, there's still plenty to be offered for a two day trip.  Despite the less than ideal camping (rafting companies own most of the nicer camping spots) and less than full on wilderness (logging roads in the canyon are frequented by locals on ATVs), the Gauley as an overnight offers a great opportunity to experience the river in a new way.

I won't say too much about the Raven Fork overnight trip here other than it's the best class V overnighter in the Southeast.  This is also the most true overnighter.  It could be done in a day but it would be a long day and the water levels work out better if it drops for the second day.  The logistics are a little difficult as you need high water, good weather, and an open straight fork road.  The upper section is rarely paddled and is some of the best class IV wilderness paddling around.  The campground at Enloe Creek is one of my favorite official campgrounds anywhere.  The lower section is the best class V creek on the east coast.  It's all tucked in one of the most remote areas of the southeast.  It's as good as it gets.

Ben Warf killing it on Caveman on a non-overnight trip through the lower Raven Fork Gorge.

The upper section of Clear Creek between Clark Range and Barnett Bridge is somewhere between a float trip and a whitewater run, but the scenery and over all experience make up for the lack of exciting rapids.  Great camping in rock houses and a cool hike to a nice 50 ft. waterfall round out the experience.  For class II-III paddlers wanting an overnight wilderness paddling experience, this is where it's at.  I don't think I'd do this run every year, but the overall experience is good enough that I'll go back again.

Kirk Eddlemon enjoying the serenity of Upper Clear Creek.

Sometimes the scenery is big too.

The comforts of rock house camping.

Priorities...

Four Mile Creek Falls is just a nice little bushwhack away.

One of a few spots where the family canoe is not the vessel of choice.  Still, it works.

The Obed River from Potter's Ford to Nemo might be the longest stretch of bridgeless whitewater in the Southeast.  While there are a few rough access points in between (hiking or 4 wheelers), a full twenty miles of canyon, protected by Catoosa WMA and the Obed WSR, await you between the two bridges.  While the whitewater in the upper is not classic, it's enough to keep you entertained between the cliffs.  The second day, below the Daddy's creek confluence, passes through the main Obed canyon and its classic class III rapids.  This is the best overnight trip in the Obed system, and probably all of Tennessee.

Mark Newton drives into the awkward pinch at Billy Goat Bluff.

This photo tries to make it intense.

Glamor shots at camp.  Look at that body...

Classic whitewater in the main Obed Canyon.

Daddy's Creek from Antioch Bridge to Devil's Breakfast Table is a classic Tennessee class III+ run; however, add in the extra 12 miles through the Obed Canyon and you've got a great 18 mile day or short overnight trip.  This year we chose to do it as a quick overnighter, putting on at 6 pm and taking off by 8:30 am the next morning so we didn't miss any work.  The whitewater is fantastic in both the Daddy's Creek and Obed Canyons, as is the great plateau scenery.  While not really a true overnighter (the run can be done in 3-4 hours with good water), the camping is great under the main Obed wall and there's no reason to rush through this place. 
 

Daddy's Creek Canyon is classic.  Even when it's low.

Camping in the Obed Canyon does not suck.

The Chattooga River from Earl's Ford to Lake Tugaloo was the first overnighter I did after moving to the Southeast.  Alongside great scenery and camping, this river just has soul.  Section III is a nice adjustment to loaded boats and the Narrows is magical.  Section IV has great camping (right below seven foot if you've got a small group) and a great finish with five falls.  This river also runs when little else is going in the summer time, which means great weather.  All in all, it's a classic.

Full moon camping on the Chattooga is where it's at.

That's it folks.  Just a few ideas on where to go to find some overnight whitewater enjoyment.




Jim